The first sketchbook I took travelling was on a trip to Kenya with friends. I spent my 25th birthday with them on Lamu Island. I remember because I was carrying a tray of drinks from the bar at Petly’s, the only place we could buy beer, when the sarong they’d given me as a present came undone. I saved the beer.
Mike Yule, a cartoonist with a wicked pen, chose our kit: a long, tapered, thick-nibbed Rotring fountain pen loaded with ink siphoned from a little bottle by twisting a cartridge. It’s funny how tools shape style; those sketches were scratchy, and the ink forced me to forgive inaccuracy and enjoy making marks with the charm of wonky proportions.
Those holiday snaps required a long exposure: finding shade to draw Masai tribeswomen or a bloke making clothes in the street on a pedal sewing machine, and I ended up having to pay a magnificent Chief, Charles Kamau, wearing his ceremonial garb, to stay still long enough for me to get it all in.
They were sketchy but satisfying. Maybe because they were a pause, a chance to stare at something for a while and not think of anything else. A lifetime later, I wonder if the pleasure was relief from the skipping thoughts of a younger ADHD mind. Something to focus on without having to make anything more of it than the thing itself.
It didn’t feel strange to find a spot to sit and draw while we backpacked around Kenya. It was familiar. My father recorded our first family trip overseas in a sketchbook, and when he and Mum travelled without us, they’d send postcards and letters with drawings of their adventures.
Dad always drew. Right up until his eyes finally packed in, he couldn’t get through a day without drawing or writing something. Sorting through the papers he left for us to discover in beautifully organised files, there were plenty of sketches to remember him. All carefully observed with his generous, inquisitive, playful worldview, including the letters he sent to my mother in courtship, which my Grandmother couldn’t wait to see too.
One of the things we talked about just before he died was his travel journals, packed with drawings. These were his legacy, things he was proud of. There are other accomplishments, but the journals were top of mind, possibly because, after his family, they were uniquely his life, and he’d enjoyed his later years; when he couldn’t line up his hand with his increasingly unreliable eye to make marks he could control, he’d look back through them. As his memories faded, he could leaf through his journals to access the happy times he had shared with Fay.
He’d say that when you drew something, you were understanding it. You’d be figuring out how something was built, the thoughts and feelings behind a person’s expression or pose, what they’d choose to wear, and how they wore it. Histories revealed. Ideas expressed. The same applies to his watercolour landscapes, or the cityscapes, urban allegories, and abstractions he painted in his studio.
He loved to make art.
A lot of things came to a confluence when he died earlier this year. I guess the death of a parent is a knot in time that can’t be undone. Family, home, health, work, money, loved ones, unloved ones, and existential preoccupations that can’t be controlled, twisted and tied around an immutable event.
Anyway, to unpick the knot, I thought I’d do some drawings. An arbitrary 100, loosely based on the time I can afford to travel, hang out with Jodi in our old haunts, with family and friends, not worry too much about work, and see what happens. And remember Dad. So far, there are just over 50 drawings, from the porch of our new home in Auckland, to London, Istanbul, Barcelona, the Chamonix Valley, the English countryside, and back home again.
More to come.
Mountain painting homework: Täschhorn in the Swiss Alps, from a photo.
Looking back on these drawings, I’m surprised by the mountains. I thought my style would get looser the more I drew, but mostly I’ve become more considered. The exception is the mountains. I can’t capture them in pen and wash; they need well-observed light and shade to have any presence. I can’t decide whether they’re just pretty, or not-so-pretty, attempts at watercolour, or if they could become something more.
They send me back to the painters in my imaginary art collection who found their own way to show scenes like the ones I’ve been sketching. One of them was a great mate of my father’s, Michael Eaton. Mike painted the Canterbury mountains he knew and loved, where I walked, climbed, and skied when I was younger.
While I was in Chamonix, this one never got past a faint pencil outline of the ridge and a few rocky buttresses. Back home, I’ve been staring and squinting at a photo, trying to figure out the light, dark, texture, and magnificence of The Dru. One of my favourite mountains. I’ll do some more of these.
Pilgrimage to an old haunt, ground zero of modern British cooking, St John on St John Street, Smithfield Market.
From Deborah’s balcony in Darwin Court: Cecil Sharp House, home of the English Folk Dance and Song Society; the ballroom where the stars of Strictly Come Dancing plot their moves; and the shade of the plane-tree avenue where the paps lurk, waiting to shoot the stars and their choreographers.
The Undercroft beneath Queen Elizabeth Hall on London’s South Bank. Three of the architects who worked on this in 1967 later founded Archigram and championed similarly unfinished spaces, where people could fill in the blanks, long before skateboards were a thing. The skaters came six years later. They’re still here.
OK, so I showed Caroline my sketchbook, and she said. “You should check out the martini bar at our new Hawksmoor Restaurant in St Pancras; so much beautiful detail. Draw it, and I’ll buy you a drink.” Or that’s how I remember it. So I went there. After my first martini, I asked Daniel, the bar manager, what his favourite was. His reply: “Do you like your drinks strong?” The point of this trip has been to say yes a lot, so I said yes a few more times, and Daniel explained how to atomise vermouth into a fine spray onto a frozen glass so the gin stays sub-zero and avoids dilution. The secret to a frighteningly good martini. While I nursed my next and tried to capture the fruitiness of the gilded cornices, Daniel, appalled by my distraction, poured the remaining liquid into a frosty, freshly chilled glass, an unreasonable amount of effort to ensure maximum martini. Anyway, I did a pencil sketch with one eye closed, took a photo to finish later, then went out to sober up before catching a train to Emily and Rob’s.
The Pirate Castle on Regent’s Canal, Camden, and a Pirate.
Holly, James, Sam & Charlie’s handsome home in Hampshire. Another beautiful place to eat, drink, yarn and wake up to.
Sensational location, accommodation, and company.
Les Grandes Montets, Argentière, IMO, the best ski field in the world. Seen coming down from Col des Montets towards Argentière.
Mer de Glace, September 2026. When I first skied down from the Aiguille du Midi in 1993, the glacier’s surface sat roughly a hundred metres higher than it does here, the height of a thirty-storey building, gone from the top. The rock and moraine filling the middle of this painting are what the ice rested on.
Sunrise on the Aiguille du Midi.
On the Petite Balcon Sud, Buvette de la Floria is the perfect place to see the Dru, specifically the Aiguille du Dru, in all its glory.
It’s late summer, and l’Arve is running full from glacial melt. Still a great place to stand or bathe in the running water and forest, even if there are no fish in the river.
From a quiet spot in the forest on the track from La Flegère to Chamonix, runners cover the last few miles to the finish line, out of the heat and downhill, but the course is still challenging, and these guys dance from rock to rock and skip over tree roots.
Waiting for Ben Dhiman to make it to the top of the last climb of the 100m (the m is for miles!) UTMB race at La Flegère. He finished in 18:16:38, the fastest ever in the ultimate mountain marathon. I walked back down to the bottom of the valley, overtaken by trail runners, support crew, and fans leaping from rock to rock like gravity wasn’t a thing, dressed like tropical fish in equipment so exotic that the only way to figure out what it was designed to do was by seeing the wearer moving uphill or downhill quite fast.
Something for everyone in Chamonix: a 100-mile UTMB mountain marathon starts at 5pm; on the other side of Les Drus is one of the great north faces of the Alps to climb; there are trees to figure out how to paint; and if you’re really adventurous, there is golf.
Nice day to jump off a mountain.
Dawn and Albert’s ‘new’ barn and home in the countryside. The last time I was here, this was a beautiful pond in fields beside a dilapidated cowshed and a fallen-down barn. They’ve turned it into a paradise. I’d almost forgotten how restorative it is to be in their company, sharing stories and seeing again how committed they are to making this tiny part of the world, and the other places we’ve worked together to restore, better.
Withnail reciting Hamlet to the wolves in Regents Park Zoo
The Feng Shang Princess and other floating palaces are just across Regent’s Canal from the seat where Jackson Lamb likes to smoke and secretly meet Catherine Standish in Slow Horses.
Sautéed on the tarmac at Almería, all part of the service.
Cuzzie Deborah’s gaff: Casa Jazmin, below Santa María and the Mojácar Town Hall and a pile of other casas, shops, cafes, and offices that are very hard to distinguish from each other.
Mojácar could have been designed by Maurits Escher. Walk up a narrow calle, and you’ll find yourself at the bottom of a lane you thought you were above; go left, and you’ll end up right of where you were headed. It’s generously conjured other hallucinations: topsy-turvy buildings, people speaking in tongues, calm days, crazy nights, and a fricken eclipse of the sun by the moon… without any drugs.
Mojácar’s whitewashed Moorish old town and fortress-style Santa María Church were built after the Moorish mayor surrendered to Catholic forces in 1488. A lot more tranquilo these days. Way too hot for fighting, and the bars will serve anyone.
Back under the orange tree at Casa Minguito, Mojácar. I first sat here in 2001, came back in 2012 and 2026, and the only thing that’s changed is the pruning. Now it’s a massive doughnut, with the inner foliage removed to eliminate dead wood and promote new growth springing from the perimeter, supported by sturdier branches, a great technique for arborists of trees and politics. Damn, no emoji for chainsaw.
I’ve been building up to this. The almost-complete Sagrada Família Passion Facade from Plaça de la Sagrada Família. Way too much mind-blowing detail to process, but squeezed this one out.
The canal beside the tannery where Louis Pasteur was born and raised would have been teeming with less benign microbes back in the day; this evening it’s fragrant and, I imagine, prettier.
Up before the temperature hit 36c. At the top of the old town, where my sister-in-law Emilie grew up, stands the Collégiale Notre-Dame de Dole. It is the centrepiece of a reconstruction after Louis XI sacked the place. They laid its foundation stone in 1509, and finished the tower in 1596. It looks more like a fortress than a church. A massive 73-metre limestone finger to the monarch.
Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside.
Joe, Alex, Thelma and Otto have the beach hut at the end of this row on Hastings’ beachfront.
This is our cuzzie’s, Joe, Alex, Thelma, and Otto’s house in Hastings, East Sussex, a literal hop, skip, and a jump from the seaside, which I also sketched but still need to colour in. Lovely place to hang out.
Shady Soho Square. Hasn’t changed much, except someone left the thermostat turned up, making it the perfect place to shelter on a 32-degree day. London summers have got a lot more summery.
A summer morning on Primrose Hill. Jodi and Deborah sprinkle some of Auntie Joan’s ashes from a spice jar onto a tree near the top. An unusual and lovely part of Joan’s farewell world tour.
Bar Italia, the place my old mate John Coghill lived above, in the flat where I met Jodi, so kinda historic for more than being the first place anyone ever saw a television and, from 1949 until Kiwis and Aussies began transforming cafe culture with the invention of the flat white, possibly the only cafe in London where coffee was very strong and very good.
Some more maths. Staring and squinting at this until it wobbles is a glimpse of the ‘no-straight-lines’ natural world these mosaics celebrate.
Part of the massive and beautiful Topkapi Palace grounds, the only prerequisite for this one was finding shade in the opposite cloister.
Swimming in the Sea of Marmara
Islamic geometry homework
Kadıköy pen and coffee wash
Buyukada pen and coffee wash
The Blue Mosque
The pinkest of Balat’s Coloured Houses in Istanbul
Istanbul’s New Mosque — completed 1660–1665.
Found ourselves on the train with internationally renowned lagerphonist and inventor of the Zob Stick, Keef Trouble, and his entourage. What a prima donna.
🎾🎾🎾
Favourite frequent haunt now opposite a ‘Gail’s’, they are everywhere like a bougie rash. Still plenty of good pubs tho.
Hanging outside The Royal Academy Summer Exhibition.
Popped into a pub on Berwick Street for a wee but felt conspicuous ’cause it was empty. I asked if I could buy cigarettes. After saying “no”, the barman pulled out one of his, “karma”, he said to the barmaid, “when in Soho”, I thought. So I took a pint and his smoke outside. Back inside, I sat in front of this window, listening to the two of them murder the vocoder chorus to Life After Love, just like Cher, and cackle with laughter. I was still busting and had to concentrate on not pissing myself. I love this place. I think I’m going to post all my sketches, even the shit ones like this. 5 stars on Trip Advisor for commitment to karaoke, Cher.
Back in our old neighbourhood, where Palmers used to sell snakes and monkeys, you can now get coffee there.
One for @khgardiner
Javier’s house is across the road from ours on our new street.
Neighbourhood watch. 👀
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Originally posted on Instagram.