The first sketchbook I took travelling was on a trip to Kenya with friends. I spent my 25th birthday with them on Lamu Island. I remember because I was carrying a tray of drinks from the bar at Petly’s, the only place we could buy beer, when the sarong they’d given me as a present came undone and I had to carry the tray with parts uncovered.
One of our crew was Mike Yule, a cartoonist with a wicked pen and an obsession with stationery, like me. We chose our kit: a long, tapered, thick-nibbed Rotring fountain pen loaded with ink siphoned from a little bottle by twisting a cartridge. It’s funny how tools shape style; those sketches were scratchy, and the ink’s permanence forced me to forgive inaccuracy and enjoy making marks with the charm of wonky proportions.
Those holiday snaps required a long exposure: finding shade to draw Masai tribeswomen or a bloke making clothes in the street on a pedal sewing machine, and I ended up having to pay a magnificent Chief, Charles Kamau, wearing his ceremonial garb, to stay still long enough for me to get it all in.
They were rough but satisfying. Maybe because they were a pause to stare at something for a while and not think of anything else. A lifetime later, I wonder if the pleasure was relief from the skipping thoughts of a younger ADHD mind. Something to focus on without having to make anything more of it than the thing itself.
It didn’t feel strange to find a spot to sit and draw while we backpacked around Kenya. It was familiar. My father recorded our first family trip overseas in a sketchbook, and when he and Mum travelled without us, they’d send postcards and letters with drawings of their adventures.
Dad always drew. Right up until his eyes finally packed in, he couldn’t get through a day without drawing or writing something. Sorting through the papers he left for us to discover in beautifully organised files, there were plenty of sketches to remember him. All carefully observed with his generous, inquisitive, playful worldview, including the letters he sent to my mother in courtship, which my Grandmother couldn’t wait to see too.
One of the things we talked about just before he died was his travel journals, packed with drawings. These were his legacy, things he was proud of. There are other accomplishments, but the journals were top of mind, possibly because, after his family, they were uniquely his life, and he’d enjoyed his later years, when he couldn’t line up his hand with his increasingly unreliable eye to make marks he could control, he’d look back through them. As his memories faded, he could access the happy times he had shared with Fay by leafing through his journals.
He’d say that when you drew something, you were understanding it. You’d be figuring out how something was built, the thoughts and feelings behind a person’s expression or pose, what they’d choose to wear, and how they wore it. Histories revealed. Ideas expressed. The same applies to his watercolour landscapes, or the cityscapes, urban allegories, and abstractions he painted in his studio.
He loved to make art.
A lot of things came to a confluence when he died earlier this year. I guess the death of a parent is a knot in time that can’t be undone. Family, home, health, work, money, loved ones, unloved ones, and existential preoccupations that can’t be controlled, twisted and tied to an immutable event.
Anyway, to unpick the knot, I thought I’d do some drawings. An arbitrary 100, loosely based on the time I can afford to travel, hang out with Jodi in our old haunts, with family and friends, not worry too much about work, or lack of it, and see what happens. And remember Dad. So far, there are 40 or so drawings, from the porch of our new home to the streets of London, Istanbul, and Barcelona.
More to come.
Sensational location, accommodation, and company.
The Grandes Montets
Mer de Glace, September 2026. When I first skied down from the Aiguille du Midi in 1993, the surface of this glacier sat roughly a hundred metres higher than it does here, the height of a thirty-storey building, gone from the top. The rock and moraine filling the middle of this painting is what the ice was resting on.
Sunrise on the Aguille Du Midi.
On the Petite Balcon Sud, Buvette de la Floria is the perfect place to see the Dru, more precisely the Aiguille du Dru in all its glory.
It’s late summer, and l’Arve is running full from glacial melt. Still a great place to stand or bathe in running water and forest, even if there aren’t fish in the river.
From a quiet spot in the forest on the track from La Flegère to Chamonix, runners are covering the last few miles to the finish line, out of the heat, downhill, but the course is still challenging, and these guys are dancing from rock to rock and skipping over tree roots.
Waiting for Ben Dhiman to make it to the top of the last climb of the 100m (the m is for miles!) UTMB race at La Flegère. He finished in 18:16:38, the fastest ever in the ultimate mountain marathon. I walked back down to the bottom of the valley, overtaken by trail runners, support crew, and fans leaping from rock to rock like gravity wasn’t a thing, dressed like tropical fish in equipment so exotic that the only way to figure out what it was designed to do was by seeing the wearer moving uphill or downhill quite fast.
Something for everyone in Chamonix: a 100-mile UTMB mountain marathon starts at 5pm; on the other side of Les Drus is one of the great north faces of the Alps to climb; there are trees to figure out how to paint; and if you’re really adventurous, there is golf.
Nice day to jump off a mountain.
Dawn and Albert’s ‘new’ barn and home in the countryside. The last time I was here, this was a beautiful pond in fields beside a dilapidated cowshed and a fallen-down barn. They’ve turned it into a paradise. I’d almost forgotten how restorative it can be to be in their company, sharing stories and seeing again how committed they are to making this tiny part of the world and the other places we’ve worked together to restore.
Withnail reciting Hamlet to the wolves in Regents Park Zoo
The Feng Shang Princess and other floating palaces are just across Regents Canal from the seat where Jackson Lamb likes to smoke and secretly meet Catherine Standish in Slow Horses.
Sautéed on the tarmac at Almería, all part of the service.
Cuzzie Deborah’s gaff: Casa Jazmin, below Santa Maria and the Mojacar Town Hall and a pile of other casas, shops, cafes, and offices that are very hard to distinguish from each other.
Mojácar could have been designed by Maurits Escher. Walk up a narrow calle, and you’ll find yourself at the bottom of a lane you thought you were above; go left, and you’ll end up right of where you were headed. It’s generously conjured other hallucinations: topsy-turvy buildings, people speaking in tongues, calm days, crazy nights, and a fricken eclipse of the sun by the moon… without any drugs.
Mojácar’s whitewashed Moorish old town and fortress-style Santa María Church were built after the Moorish mayor surrendered to Catholic forces in 1488. A lot more tranquilo these days. Way too hot for fighting, and the bars will serve anyone.
Back under the orange tree at Casa Minguito, Mojácar. First sat here in 2001, came back in 2012, 2026, and the only thing that’s changed is the pruning. Now it’s a massive doughnut with the inner foliage removed to eliminate dead wood and promote the new growth springing from the perimeter supported by the sturdier branches, which is a great technique for arborists of trees and politics. Damn, no emoji for chainsaw.
I’ve been building up to this. The almost complete Sagrada Família’s Passion Facade from the Placa de la Sagrada Família. Way too much mind-blowing detail to process, but squeezed this one out.
The canal beside the tannery where Louis Pasteur was born and raised would have been teeming with less benign microbes back in the day; this evening it’s fragrant and, I imagine, prettier.
Up before the temperature hit 36c. At the top of the old town, where my sister-in-law Emilie grew up, stands the Collégiale Notre-Dame de Dole. The centrepiece in a reconstruction after Louis XI sacked the place. Its foundation stone was laid in 1509, and the tower was finished in 1596. It looks more like a fortress than a church. A massive 73-metre limestone finger to the monarch.
Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside.
Joe, Alex, Thelma and Otto have a beach hut at the end of this row on Hastings’ beachfront.
This is our cuzzie’s, Joe, Alex, Thelma and Otto’s house in Hastings, East Sussex, a literal hop, skip and a jump from the seaside, which also got sketched but still needs colouring in. Lovely place to hang out.
Shady Soho Square. Hasn’t changed much, except someone left the thermostat turned up, making it the perfect place to shelter on a 32-degree day. London summers have got a lot more summery.
A summer morning on Primrose Hill. @jodiredden12 and @debzrc are sprinkling some of Auntie Joan’s ashes out of a spice jar on a tree close to the top. An unusual and lovely part of Joan’s farewell world tour.
Bar Italia, the place my old mate John Coghill lived above, in the flat where I met @jodiredden12 so kinda historic for more than being the first place anyone ever saw a television and, from 1949 until Kiwis and Aussies began transforming cafe culture with the invention of the flat white, possibly the only cafe in London where coffee was very strong and very good.
Some more maths. Staring and squinting at this until it wobbles is a glimpse of the ‘no-straight-lines’ natural world these mosaics celebrate.
Part of the massive and beautiful Topkapi Palace grounds, the only prerequisite for this one was finding shade in the opposite cloister.
Swimming in the Sea of Marmara
Islamic geometry homework
Kadikoy pen and coffee wash
Buyukada pen and coffee wash
The Blue Mosque
The pinkest of Balat’s Coloured Houses in Istanbul
Istanbul’s New Mosque — completed 1660–1665.
Found ourselves on the train with internationally renowned lagerphonist and inventor of the Zob Stick, Keef Trouble, and his entourage. What a prima donna.
🎾🎾🎾
Favourite frequent haunt now opposite a ‘Gail’s’, they are everywhere like a bougie rash. Still plenty of good pubs tho.
Hanging outside The Royal Academy Summer Exhibition.
Popped into a pub on Berwick Street for a wee but felt conspicuous ’cause it was empty. I asked if I could buy cigarettes. After saying “no”, the barman pulled out one of his, “karma”, he said to the barmaid, “when in Soho”, I thought. So I took a pint and his smoke outside. Back inside, I sat in front of this window listening to the two of them murdering the vocoder chorus to Life After Love, just like Cher, and cackling with laughter. I was still busting and had to concentrate on not pissing myself. I love this place. I think I’m going to post all my sketches, even the shit ones like this. 5 stars on Trip Advisor for commitment to karaoke, Cher.
Back in our old neighbourhood, where Palmers used to sell snakes and monkeys, you can now get coffee there.
One for @khgardiner
Javier’s house is across the road from ours on our new street.
Neighbourhood watch. 👀
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Originally posted on Instagram.